Japanese People Discovering Themselves

As a kind of follow up to my recent article at Chanpon.org on Japan “Losing its soul” I have also noticed a lot of posters in recent Japanese advertisements which claim that visiting some place will help you discover yourself—that is, discover one’s latent or forgotten Japanese identity. Today I noticed just such a poster on the bus going from Kinkakuji to Ryôanji promoting tourism to Kyoto:

「日本に、京都があってよかった。こころの風景、うつくしい時間にこだわった、千二百余年。時代をこえて、永遠をつなぐ風がこの町を駆け抜ける。平安をもとめつづけるこの都で、風に吹かれて出会うのは、”知らなかったワタシ”だったりする。」

I am so glad Japan has this place called Kyoto. It is a landscape of the spirit that, for some thousand and two hundred years has devoted itself to spending time surrounded by beauty. Spanning the ages, a wind bound to eternity runs through this town. In this [ancient] capital that always yearned for peace (Heian) I think I might have found, blowing in the wind, “A Me that I have never known.”

Feel free to correct my translation, but if it seems a little on the cheesy side, I assure you it was no less so in the original. Sayaka noticed that the “Heian” is probably deliberately used with two meanings, peace (which is a very important component of Japan’s national identity in the postwar period), and as the name for the period when the capital was moved to Kyoto and also representative of its glory days.
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Tatami Mats and Escalators

After giving my final presentation at Waseda University, where I have spent the last two years as a “research student” 研究生, I left immediately for the Kansai area of central Japan to join Sayaka and her family in her hometown of Takarazuka 宝塚. The next three days were spent traveling around to nearby sites that I have, in all my time in Japan, never gotten around to visiting. Sunday was spent visiting Nara (see some of my pictures here) while the next two days were spent in Kyoto (some pictures here). It is a bit ironic that I have spent some of my last days in Japan in two cities tourists usually spend their first nights, but I’m very happy to have had the opportunity to visit.

The Kansai region is different from the Kantô area of Tokyo in many ways and since I have spent very little time in the former, some of these differences are quite new to me. Two little tidbits that have escaped my notice all this time: 1) Tatami mats, the size of which are a common measurement for the size of rooms and apartments, are apparently significantly larger in the Kansai area. I am told, however, that the “standard” Tokyo size of tatami mats are becoming more widespread. 2) In the Tokyo area, people stand on the left side of the escalator and walk up the right side. In the Kansai area, people stand on the right side and walk up the left side. Sayaka said something about seeing a TV news clipping which explained this as having something to do with the location of the exit in the first department store in which escalators were used in Japan. I’m really curious to know where this practice switches sides. Presumably, somewhere between Osaka and Tokyo, escalator-standing-culture switches sides…anyone know where? While I’m on this type of topic, I always wondered what the border between Sweden and Norway looked like back in the days when the Swedes drove on the left hand side of the road….two great questions for an idle google moment.

UPDATE: I found out a little more about the history of the Sweden case of switching from left to right on this web page (can’t vouch for its accuracy)

Spiderman 2 and Civil-Military Relations

Sayaka has deeply immersed herself in reading related to her potential topic for PhD research: civil-military relations. She will be applying to PhD programs in the fall. I can tell it is getting serious—she has a great posting about Spiderman 2 and its connection to her topic. I also watched the movie in Korea (the first movie I have ever seen at a movie theater at 9:45 in the morning) and thought it was fantastic. Probably the best comic book movie I have seen to date. Frank Rich has a great editorial that I read in the International Herald Tribune which talks about Moore’s new film and Spiderman 2. He lauds Spiderman for being a movie that, “promotes a credo of justice without vindictiveness.” The article also touches on some of the things Sayaka mentioned. For Rich, Peter Parker is the hero that America could have been.

“With great power comes great responsibility” is the central tenet of his faith, passed down not from God but from his Uncle Ben (Cliff Robertson). He takes it seriously. Spider-Man wants to vanquish evil, but he doesn’t want to be reckless about it. Like the reluctant sheriff of an old western, he fights back only when a bad guy strikes first, leaving him with no alternative. He wouldn’t mind throwing off his Spider-Man identity entirely to go back to being just Peter Parker, lonely Columbia undergrad. But of course he can’t. This is 2004, and there is always evil bearing down on his New York.

Konglish

An alternative title for this post might be, “Everything you didn’t understand your Korean friend say but were afraid to ask.” While browsing through the more useless features of my new EW-K3000 I found a section on Korean-English expressions in something called eBoyoung’s Dictionary of English Conversational Expressions. I also found more Konglish words on this site. I typed up a lot of these (I don’t think you can copyright a list of this nature) and listed them below for your perusal. Anyone who speaks Japanese will note that a lot of Konglish terms are also found in Japanese. I am particularly fond of the bizarre or humorous Konglish phrases ones like “overeat”,”walkers”, and “Let’s Dutch pay!” I’m sure there some great stories behind some of these phrases.
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Technosegregation: Domestic and Imported

One of my accomplishments during my day in Seoul was the purchase of a Casio EW-K3000 electronic dictionary at “Techno Mart” at Gangbyeon station (I guess this is the Korean equivalent to Tokyo’s “Electric Town” at 秋葉原). The dictionary, which I would like to think I got at a reasonable bargain price, will be great for my future studies in Korean language. It has Korean-English, English-Korean, Japanese-Korean, Korean-Japanese, and Korean-Korean dictionaries, along with half a dozen other dictionaries I have absolutely no use for.

I don’t know how common this is in Korea, and I have seen something similar in at least one department store in Beijing, but Techno Mart has separate floors for domestic Korean electronics (for example, computers made by Samsung) which are conveniently located on the 2nd floor, labeled 국내 (domestic, the characters are 國內 and sounds very similar to the Japanese pronunciation K: kuknae J: kokunai) and foreign “imported” electronics located higher up in the building (for example computers made by Sony) on the 수입 floors (imported, the characters are 輸入, used in both Chinese and Japanese but pronunciation is not that similar in either, so I could have never guessed K: suip J: yunyû C: shuru). I guess that is one easy way to remind customers to “buy Korean”. I have another idea, we could turn off all the escalators above the 2nd floor and make anyone wanting to buy imported goods walk up the stairs!

Guessing Korean: 안내 and 은행

I’m told about 60% or so of Korean words, especially nouns, are Chinese derived compounds. They once used 한자 (漢字/汉字), or Chinese characters when they wrote most if not all of these words. Now, I think, hanja is only rarely used in the South and almost never in the North. I know this is really selfish of me, but I really wish Korea still used Chinese characters for these words. Ya ya, literacy concerns, the benefits of using the “world’s most logical” alphabetic system, Korean identity and all that, I have heard it all before. But just think though, if they still used 한자 over a billion Chinese, over a hundred million Japanese, and a bunch of other Asia scholar geeks could all prance around Korea and understand the signs!

Ok, perhaps it is a little too much to expect but, if you speak some Chinese and some Japanese, and you sit down and spend the hour or two needed to learn the Korean alphabet, it is still not that difficult to guess many Korean words you come across, assuming you have some hint at the context. That is because Korean words derived from Chinese character compounds often sound really similar to either the Chinese or Japanese equivalent. Sometimes the compound exists in Japanese but not in Chinese. Other times, only in Chinese. Sometimes they exist in both but the pronunciation is very similar only to one of the two.
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Freedom and Equality

Sometimes it is good to come across reminders that words, while powerful, and potentially imbued with virtuous sounding echos, can often hide deeply compromising realities. Take the passage below, for example, found in the testimony at the trial of a Japanese popular rights activist who was planning a Japan led/guided revolution in Korea. I have removed the words “Korea” and “Asia” and “Japan” and “Japanese” etc. and replace with “we” and “they” etc. in order to show the template that lies beneath. As a fun experiment try replacing these words with other countries from the last year of news:

“[We] wish to bring peace and happiness to the people suffering there…Our action is derived from compassion, a spirit of mutual help; it was not aimed at war with the people….[They] are our brothers and sisters. Just as they may offer help to [us] [we] too must be ready to help them. There should be no suspicion of one who sees another people suffering, feels compassion toward them and wishes to help them. It is the person who does not respond that way that should be suspected. [Their] customs are…uncivilized…and [their] penal codes are barbaric….For [us] to just watch and do nothing for them was unbearable to those of us who love freedom and equality, and our mind was made up to help them…Our struggle in [that country] is not a war in the usual sense; it is directed not against the country itself nor against its people but against a handful of leaders there who are oppressing the people….” (14)

While the plot failed, Japan went on to annex Korea only a few decades later. The quote is cited in an old essay by Etô Shinkichi, “Two Faces of Janus: The Role of Japanese Activists in Modern East Asia” from 1986. As I indicated in my earlier posting on the Norwegian SS soldier, I’m increasingly fascinated by how easily accounts from what we may imagine to be diametrically opposed ideologies or distant historical contexts can often sound so similar when we merely remove a few nouns here and there.

I haven’t thought this through yet, but I don’t think it is possible or even desirable to completely desensitize ourselves to powerful rhetoric, or extract some pure rational argument supporting every cause both noble and wicked. Given that, how do we situate ourselves in a world buzzing with these kinds of messages? It is a real issue for me, and one that I find myself thinking about a lot…

Multilingual Airplane Announcements

I’m writing this on the plane back to Tokyo. I have always been interested in the way that announcements on many flights, especially in Asia and Europe are given in multiple languages. Some of them, such as the pilot’s post-take-off babbling speech, has to be interpreted on the fly by the flight attendants. The imperfections that result from such interpreting and the differing strategies in interpretation that sometimes result are something I love to tune into when I’m lucky enough to understand more than one version. On this flight, the American pilot had his speech translated into Chinese and Japanese which is a lucky combo of languages for me…
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Nationalism vs. Patriotism

My friend Derek left a comment in which he said he feels like the lines between patriotism and nationalism are blurring for him. I have discussed this issue often with friends and it tends to bring out strong emotions, partly because I tend to offend many people’s intuitions when I explain my own position on this. The short version of the traditional story on this goes, of course, that patriotism is a healthy love of one’s country, pride in its achievements, and a natural loyalty to it as a citizen, while nationalism is the dark, often fascist variety that breeds all sorts of evil deeds.

The division, in my opinion is completely political. I never use the word patriotism because I am not satisfied with any definition of it that makes it any substantively different than any useful definition of nationalism I have ever come across. Patriotism is to nationalism as collateral damage is to killing civilians.

Because the debate usually gets heated right about here, I have found it productive to look at things the other way around and show what the two have in common: they both accept the idea that one should (or naturally does) identify with some abstract entity, called the nation, which is somehow different and distinct from the institutions of a political body called the state. They both bestow upon this entity a great deal of legitimacy, moral value, and authority and further hold that this thing generates powerful obligations of loyalty upon its members, who may or may not be the legal citizens of a state to which the nation usually corresponds.

Both of them have at least three major internal tensions or contradictions which I believe can be easily revealed by posing three questions: What is the relationship between the nation to its people (in terms of culture, language, ideology, citizenship, etc.)? What is the relationship between the nation and a state (for example, what about nationalisms which had/have no state like Kosovo or pre-Israel Zionism)? And then there is my favorite: What is the relationship between the obligations to a nation (if one even admits to having them which, for the record, I don’t), and other obligations one might have to one’s morals, some religious deity, or other communities like family, company, town, race, etc.?
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Inventions, National Achievements, and Paper clips

Most nations of the world go out of their way to celebrate things they have, or believe they have, contributed to the world. They often latch onto the creations or achievements of a person or a whole community of a period when there was nothing similar in form to the modern nation. Sometimes the “achievements” claimed or celebrated, are, upon closer examination, responsible for so much mischief, that one wonders why they are still celebrated. Mongolia’s fascination with the figure of Genghis Khan is a good example of both. This sort of practice is so common I think we can all think of examples in every country.

When these achievements are of a more abstract or ideological nature, even the most admirable of principles can lead to sinister consequences. The most obnoxious obvious example I can think of is the American claim to be the world’s wellspring of freedom and democracy. The claim takes many forms, from the limited celebration of the entrance of America’s democracy onto the world stage, to a broader vision of America as being somehow uniquely capable of blessing the world with leadership and guidance. What I think is unique about this kind of nationalist claim is its powerful universal reach. That is, it goes beyond the traditional nationalist claim of, “Hey, my nation has a glorious history and kicks major butt” to reach beyond its borders and suggest there is a national responsibility to attend to the development of the rest of the world.

While America has gone through several “isolationist” periods, I don’t think this built-in aspect of American nationalism has ever disappeared completely. I also know that I’m not the first to argue that this is a feature America shares with Napoleon’s France and the Soviet proletarian revolution. It probably also shares much in common with another move, less particular to any single nation as it is a feature of the birth and development of nations in general (especially the colonial powers): the claim to champion progress and Civilization. All of these moves serve as a powerful justification for Empire, mass mobilization, and total war when they are effectively deployed.

Most nations like Norway, however, appear to be content to take pride in the invention of more mundane things. Of course, Norwegian-Americans can often be found with bumper stickers or mugs claiming, “Columbus had a Norwegian map,” which is a joking reference to the viking settlements in North America that long preceded Christopher’s trip across the ocean. However, I am told now that someone is making the more serious claim that Columbus had a Chinese map. Oh well. At least Norway invented paper clips.

I read this first in a fascinating book I skimmed through some years ago at a friend’s house in Stavanger. It was kind of a picture book of “Norwegian inventions.” Each page had a beautiful picture of some object that “Norway invented” and on the facing side was a short history of that particular object. Ferro-concrete and rubber boots were two of the book’s more memorable entries and probably not as controversial as the Norwegian claim to have invented skiing. But paper clips—how could I ever view these humble metal objects in the same way again? How can I avoid being filled with national pride at the way my dear humble Norway revolutionized the modern office environment at the turn of this century?

What is most farcical about this class of more modest claims, of course, is the way that an individual’s invention is transformed suddenly into the pride of a whole nation. Presumably, the inventiveness of the individual is a reflection of national character, intelligence, or the quality of its educational system. Fortunately, discussion of these national inventions and achievements now often retain only a sort of cocktail party trivia value. I wish I could say that this was always the case. Exceptions abound.

Many Chinese, and the Chinese government, for example, are rather unsure of how they are to respond to the achievements of overseas Chinese who make dazzling scientific discoveries, or when one of the most eloquent critics of their authoritarian government wins a nobel price for literature. Do you claim them for national pride? Ignore them? Or do you perhaps condemn them as traitors if they don’t come home? The Americans, of course, will claim for their own anyone who did research at its powerful universities and other institutes.

Another way that this becomes a big issue is when something like a Nobel prize becomes government currency to legitimize an education system or measure its degree of “creativity.” Japan’s Ministry of Education and many of Japan’s politicians are convinced that winning a certain number of nobel prizes is a great way to advance Japan’s reputation globally, as well as measure the progress of its educational reform. James Bartholomew has done a lot of research on this for those who are interested in learning more. Japan has announced the goal of winning 30 prizes over the next 50 years. One of many problems is, as Bartholomew pointed out in a presentation I saw him give at Berkeley a few years ago, the Nobel prize system has never been anything close to a fair and objective measure of scientific achievement (it was also structurally tilted in favor of Scandinavians at one point). He talked about Japan’s efforts to win science prizes in the prewar period and the amazing obstacles they faced in competing (as well as domestic discord which often sabotaged their chances). The Nobel prize process is one so mired in politics that the Japanese government has poured all sorts of money into coordinating its efforts nationally and playing the political lobbying campaign (see one interesting article here) that I seriously doubt that any eventual success of the policy can be linked to a general flowering of Japanese creativity and scientific prowess.

bindersNow Norwegian paper clips, on the other hand—there is an achievement which can tell you a lot about that people in the cold north. The invention of paper clips doesn’t prove that Norwegians are necessarily more creative or even great scientists. It means, like the Norwegian word for paper clip, binders, itself means: the people of the Norwegian nation are bound together as one. This is best demonstrated by the fact (you can read one online retelling of this here, and on countless Norwegian web sites—the web never lies) that during the German occupation of Norway, Norwegians were forbidden to wear badges bearing the initials of their exiled king so instead they displayed their national unity by attaching paper clips to their clothes.