Today’s Code-Switch Spotting

Today at a rice porridge restaurant near my apartment Sayaka and I overheard some interesting code-switching going on at the table next to us. A woman was struggling to feed her three children, two of which were being less than cooperative. Sometimes she would speak full sentences in Chinese, but with an accent that at first made me think she was a non-native speaker. I later concluded she was just speaking a dialect close enough to standard Mandarin for us to understand but not of the variety I was most familiar with. She seemed to slur her words in an interesting way and pronounced some syllables differently.

As the meal progressed she began code-switching with her children. One child was significantly older than the others and the mother seemed to speak to her mostly in Korean. However, a number of things such as her pronunciation and the occasional and almost random use of honorifics when speaking to her children indicated that she was less than native in Korean. With her two younger children she freely mixed Chinese and Korean, sometimes speaking several sentences in a row in Korean, then switching to Chinese, especially when barking frustrated commands to her restless children (why didn’t the father join them for their Sunday lunch? She sure could have used the help with the kids). She also freely mixed both languages in the same sentence, such as when she tried to convince her youngest that the spoonful of smoking rice porridge headed for his mouth was not hot, “不热了,먹어요, 不热了,먹어!” The youngest child always responded in Chinese, but perhaps due to his young age struggled with some of the initial consonants, turning Chinese initial consonants like c-, zh-, ch-, q- into t-, d-, t-, t-, respectfully, in a most adorable manner.

One possible background story for this family is that the mother is married to a Korean husband, learning Korean after coming here and starting a family with her new husband. Their marriage would be one of the many “invisible” international marriages in a country which has a fast growing number of Korean males marrying foreigners, especially Chinese and Vietnamese women. As I have mentioned in early postings, given my own background, I feel an intense feeling of identification with these children, no matter what their own unique mix of languages and identities might be. I hope the kids I saw today will be able to keep their Chinese as they grow up in Korea and that the social and educational environment for my young fellow hybrids will allow them to develop to their full potential.

Hanbando

After a trip to South Korea’s National Museum this afternoon, a friend of mine took us to a rather unusual new addition to Seoul’s night live. Only a few days ago a restaurant near Yŏngŭngp’o Market station called Hanbando (하반도 평양식 극장식당, ph. 2636-3550) opened with a North Korean theme to it. The interior walls are painted with the blue “united Korea” flag symbol and is painted landscapes from North and South Korea.

Hanbando PerformersWhat makes this place special is the fact that is jointly run by South Koreans and North Korean defectors, who make up much of the staff. Waitresses were dressed in characteristically North Korean black and white traditional dress and the climax of the evening came with an on-stage performance by several North Korean dancers and singers. As someone from the management explained to us when we came in, “They once sang for their country, now they are singing for themselves.” They performed various North Korean songs, some of which seemed to be familiar to the audience. The several dozen visitors who were there tonight were mostly middle aged or older but included at least one three generational family complete with grandmother and toddler.

김혜영
The Performers were led by Kim Hye-yŏng who is apparently well-known in both South Korea and increasingly in Japan since she defected to the South some seven years ago (More here which mentions the restaurant). During the performance my friends enjoyed some North Korean “Schizandra liquor” (오미자술) complete with its “Made in DPR Korea” tag. More than anything about Hanbando, what I find interesting was the complex mix of messages the restaurant gave to its visitors.
Continue reading Hanbando

国粋 and 국수

I’m giving a presentation to my Korean class related to nationalism, and wanted to explain one translation of the word that is particularly strong and usually has a negative connotation: 국수주의(國粹主義). I want to explain the word by discussing its parts, especially the character 수(粹) which can be roughly translated as “essence.” For reference, I looked up the definition of the important compound 국수 in my Korean-Korean dictionary (동아 새국어사전 제4판). It has the following definition:

국수: 그 나라나 민족 고유의 정신상・물질상의 장점이나 아름다운 점.

To compare, I then looked up the same word in Japanese in the Japanese dictionary 広辞苑 which had the following definition:

国粋:その国家・国民に固有の、精神上・物質上の長所や美点

If you know Japanese and Korean you can see that these two definitions are, down to the order and specific wording, almost exactly same. It can be roughly translated as:

The spiritual and material virtues and strong points specific to a nation and its [people/race]

The only differences between the two definitions is that 1) the Japanese uses the word 国民 (nation; people; citizens) whereas in the same position, the Korean definition uses the word 민족(民族) which has a similar meaning but includes a kind of conception of race or ethnicity in it and as far as I know, cannot be used to merely refer to the citizens of a state. 2) The Korean uses 아름다운 점 for 美点 (good point; merit; virtue; beauty; excellence) when they could have used the same Chinese character compound 미점. However, the meaning is pretty much identical in either case.

While it is not surprising that a character compound like 国粋, which probably had either a Chinese predecessor (I haven’t bothered to look up its origin) or was a modern neologism from Japan is similarly defined in the dictionaries of the languages that adopted the compound. However, the similarity in word order and phrasing is really too close to be anything other than a direct copy. The question then is, who copied who? Or perhaps more likely, did the 広辞苑 and 새국어사전 take their definition from the same older source (the 諸橋 or something like it perhaps?)

Gutenberg’s Distributed Proofreaders

Before there was Google Books there was Project Gutenberg. In fact, the Gutenberg project hasn’t disappeared and I think it is as important as ever. I have already blogged about my frustrations with Google Books and I can only hope that some of the concerns I discussed will be resolved in the future. In the meantime, there are over 18,000 books in the public domain which you can directly download from Project Gutenberg in a whole range of fields, including some of the greatest classics of literature, philosophy, etc. Since you can download full copies of the book for viewing and searching on your machine (or in my case, I install them on my Palm PDA for reading on the road) you aren’t confined to an online interface like Google or Amazon’s on-screen picture-per-page or restricted in any other way.

The project continues to add new public domain books to its collection and this process, done with the help of many volunteers, includes the careful proof reading of OCR scanned books. These are eventually distributed by the project in text, html, and other formats after they have been checked for errors.

The project is always looking for donations to help them out. However, I just learned that now anyone can directly help in the proofreading process by becoming one of the project’s Distributed Proofreaders. Simply log into the site, browse the projects currently available for work in whatever stage of the process you want to contribute (first and second proofreading rounds, formatting round, etc.) and do a page or two or more when you have a moment free. The interface keeps track of what books you have proofread pages from in the past and is very simple to use. I’m currently proofreading a book on “Church History” published back in 1892 but there are many books in all fields out there waiting to be worked on!

Timothy Burke on the Rentiers of Sovereignty

Timothy Burke is an excellent historian and writer whose postings always deserve a close reading. I recommend that everyone read some of his comments on sovereignty in his posting Rentiers of Sovereignty

Angola is the kind of situation that made me think very differently about sovereignty, and about the kinds of politics, both conservative and leftist, that mark the achievement of sovereignty as the initial and necessary condition of achieving prosperity and freedom. Sovereignty is the material resource that the Angolan elite controls and sells, not oil. They are rentiers who extract wealth from selling permission for extraction. But they are no different than a car thief who hotwires a car parked outside a suburban home, drives it fifty miles, and then sells the car on eBay. The difference is not in what they do, but in the legal and governmental mechanisms that permit what they do. The car thief is going to run into trouble establishing a title that can be transferred legitimately. The Angolan elite has no such difficulty.

All the international institutions which exist recognize them as possessing title to sovereignty. They are the ones who send representatives to the United Nations. The are the ones who fill embassies around the world. They are the ones that the World Bank or NGOs speak to and reach agreements with. That as not a conservative or liberal thing, not a failure of the United Nations or of the Bush Administration. It as an indictment of the entire interstate system built up over the course of the 20th Century, in all its parts and particulars. That system gives titles and ownership to thieves, and allows thieves to sell their goods to supposedly legitimate businesses.

I think Burke is very well aware of the fact that any careless attack on the concept of sovereignty (and my own broader attack on nation-states in general) without thinking about alternatives. However, I fully agree with him that we must all make a call to action. In his conclusion, Burke says:

I think that the beginning of a new era of action involves a steady contempt for sovereignty and the claims made in its name, and the construction of a new international system that reflects that contempt. Let as call Angola as elite what they are: thieves. Let as call the companies pumping oil out of Angola what they are: the purchasers of stolen property. Let as make it as difficult as we can for thieves to fence stolen sovereignties, and for purchasers to buy the same.

I agree, but with one qualification. In so far as I hope the challenge of the 21st century will be to create a less violent and divisive home for humanity, I would rather not see any kind of inter-national system at all. The serious exploration of alternatives to the nation-state must be done hand in hand with the exploration of alternatives to the modern conception of sovereignty.

Michael Breen’s Orientalism: Part II

I am beginning to see a pattern in the opinion columns of Michael Breen. I talked a little bit about his problematic portrayal of Koreans in a previous posting. In today’s Friday issue of the Korea Times, in a warm and fuzzy column entitled, “Why Streets of Seoul Are Safe” he tells us why he felt comfortable leaving his wife alone on the streets of Seoul in the middle of the previous night.

There are several reasons, he says. One seems to me a quite plausible factor: the dense population of a place like Seoul means that there are “always witnesses,” making it more difficult to conceal crime completely, thus acting as a kind of constant deterrent against crime. He also claims that the Korean press does not play up stories of crime as much as our own media, which if true might also help explain why the public feels more safe. However, one of his “overriding” factors is:

“…that Koreans are raised to think hierarchically and, contrary to the popular expatriate theory that people bump into you in the street because they see you as a non-person, Koreans instinctively consider people to be either above, below or equal to them. If you think like that, it is much more difficult to get aggressive with someone you consider a superior. Put the other way, if you see all people as equal to you, you’d have less compunction about mugging or assaulting them.”

Is it just me, or this just a completely bizarre claim? Well let us put aside the discussion of whether or not the “hierarchical” thinking of Koreans really could create this sort of effect against crime. Since he identifies this with Confucian ethics, wouldn’t it be simpler to claim that the Koreans, if they are still just brain washed Confucians as he seems to think they are, have been raised to follow moral principles that dissuade them from committing acts of crime? Apparently, it isn’t the passages of the Analects, Mencius or in the commentaries of Zhu Xi exhorting them to act in a morally responsible manner but those which emphasize their hierarchical relationships with each other that count more for Breen.

The pattern I see emerging in his writing is the habit of portraying Koreans as being stuck in some feudal Confucian mindset. All of the ills of Korean society can be blamed on its Oriental despotism and Confucian hierarchy. All the virtues of Korean society can be attributed to those same Confucian values and hierarchical thinking. Oh quaint land of the morning calm Korea, how we love it and how we hate it for its mysterious oriental ways. Breen’s fans, both Koreans and non-Koreans alike can say, “Wow, he doesn’t always criticize Korea, but he really comes through with his love for Korea by showing us how its feudal mindset actually helps produce an ordered and productive society.” I believe, however, that anyone who thinks a little bit more about it will see how condescending this whole approach is.

Culture matters, to be sure, and the values and education of this society have an important impact. Breen might even be able to make a reasonable claim about the relevance of culture on the level of street crime, when carefully combined with other factors. However, his particular brand of pop-psychology is demeaning to Koreans and unhelpful for foreigners who want to better understand the environment they are in. It is truly sad that Andrei Lankov’s historical articles in his series “The Dawn of Modern Korea” should share the same page with Breen.

Karaoke to Noraebang?

I mentioned some interesting anecdotes my favorite teacher told us in class recently in my last posting. Another thing she brought up was what she saw as a huge change in Korea’s singing culture. As with previous and future postings from my time here in Korea, I must apologize if I write anything which is either common knowledge or obviously mistaken. I simply don’t have a strong enough knowledge base related to Korea yet to be sufficiently selective or critical about some of what I hear and experience.

When my teacher started talking about how much Koreans love singing, I remember that, while at Harvard, I had to endure one of those “national virtue” lectures in Korean class that, after years of Chinese and Japanese language classes, I’m really getting sick of. Back in that earlier class, we were told that the Korean race, the Korean 민족, had a unique love for singing. More than any people in the world, the Koreans love to get together and sing songs and have a deep appreciation for music. I was worried my teacher here was about to give us a dose of the same.

Now, I know absolutely nothing about this subject, but yesterday my teacher told us something, which if true, is a much more interesting side to this “Koreans love singing” story. She says that she thinks the Korean “noraebang” or karaoke box, was introduced to Korea in 1988 or 1989. She claims that before this time there was “Karaoke” in hotels and in some bars and such but not karaoke boxes of the kind we find in Japan, Taiwan, China, Korea and around the world today. She says that after their introduction, they spread like wildfire all across the country and the habit/culture of noraebang in the social life of Koreans expanded just as quickly.

She then talked nostalgically about how the appearance of noraebang changed Korean singing culture. I admired the way she refrained from elevating her description of this pre-noraebang age to some kind of “authentic” and pure past as compared to some inferior and cold modern present, but she clearly did feel a sense of loss. She claimed that before the rise of noraebang culture, it was very common for large groups of students, friends, etc. to go to restaurants and sing together there. She says they often banged their spoons on the table so much so that it was a very common sight to see bent spoons and dented tables everywhere in Korea. After the rapid introduction of noraebang culture, however, she says that the habits of singing together in groups, especially in restaurants but also at personal house parties, etc. slowly began to change and become more restricted to the noraebang. She also claimed this also had a strong negative economic effect on the restaurant business. She believes, for example, that a rapid decline in the number of restaurants in the Sillim area close to Seoul National University is connected to this shift in habits of socialization.

There are unfortunately a lot of aspects of Korean society and socializing that I will never get to experience. I loath smoke to the point it makes me nauseous and I don’t drink alcohol at all. I’m simply not willing to compromise on either of these points so I have basically excused myself from a large range of social activities in Korea. I can only frequent larger restaurants or chains that follow the non-smoking regulations, and only study or meet friends in large chain coffee shops which are non-smoking. Everyday I spend in Korea, however, I look around me and realize that there are many worlds of culture, activity and socialization which I will never really experience or fully understand.

Update: I totally missed Antti’s recent posting on this topic which tells us much more useful information about the introduction of Noraebang to Korea in 1991.

Korean Student Protest Culture: A Few Stories

We have three different teachers teaching my class Korean each week and each have their designated days. With the right encouragement, one of my teachers loves to tell us stories about her stormy university life in the 1980s and make observations about Korean society. From a strict pedagogical standpoint one might make objections to her use of class time but I find her anecdotes incredibly entertaining and educational. Her approach is in stark contrast to one of my other teachers who is so concerned about bringing up controversial issues that discussion of “politics and anything about Korea” is banned in class presentations.

This week, my favorite teacher told us a few stories about student protest life and threw in a few stereotypes of some of the universities here. She never said anything about her own involvement and always described things in the third person but the level of detail gave me the impression of her having been quite active.

She described how students emerge from high school with little or no political consciousness. When they enter university and join social or athletic “circles” they soon find themselves reading Marx and “socialist” texts. She said that even students who wanted to study hard and stay out of the political activities would be under heavy pressure to get involved or be seen as socially irresponsible.

She talked nostalgically about the days when the SNU campus was patrolled by fully armed riot police. She described how student leaders would write the location and time for large protests on their hands then, as they passed other students on campus they would quickly show the palm of their hand to the student and then hide it again, wiping the ink off their hands if apprehended by the authorities. She said this kind of thing made [them/her?] feel like spies. When the students assembled in a public place, she claimed, they would pretend to just be roaming about or shopping. Then, at the appropriate signal, usually a first attack against the police or other target, the students would all rush forward. She said there was also often a kind of gender division in which women would break up larger stones into an appropriate size for the men to carry to the “front lines.” As she told these stories, I was particularly curious what might have been going through the minds of the Chinese students in the class. Where they shocked and horrified? Secretly filled with admiration? Or completely apathetic and detached? I just couldn’t tell.

She talked about some of the stereotypes of various schools she had heard. First, on the character of their males as judged by their dating behavior: Seoul National University: “If during the date the woman says, ‘I’m cold!’ The man would warm himself and say, ‘Me too!'” Yonsei: The man would give the woman his coat. Koryeo: The man would respond, “Why don’t you run around a bit to warm up?”

She then told us a bit about her stereotypes of the university student protesters based on ideology. Seoul National University: These students, the elitist cream of the crop in Korea she called “opportunistic socialists” who would all happily protest during their student years and then take government or corporate jobs when they emerged from university life. Yonsei: Non-committed “liberalists” Koryeo: Apparently is known for having many students from outside of Seoul and their protesters were apparently stereotyped as the most ideologically hard-line “Communists” Seongkyunkwan (I’m not 100% this was the university, but some university in Seoul starting with S and it wasn’t Sogang, it had more syllables): She said something about the campus of this university being really small and cramped and that the protests here supposedly got really violent with the police in very close quarters. She said their student protesters were called 깡패 or something, which in my dictionary is defined as a hooligan, a gangster, or a ruffian. Incidently, the dictionary also lists 깡패국가 as the word for “a rogue state.”

If I could improve my Korean enough, I would love to try to get my teacher to agree to an interview or a kind of oral history of her memories from this time.

My Class

I’m really happy with my class here, fourteen of us in all. They are almost all very young students in or fresh out of college but they are fun group. We have one Indonesian, married to a Dutchman and studying art, French and Korean at various universities to avoid the “boring” women’s expat organizations. There is a Korean-American who actually just entered my department at Harvard for the coming fall as an Americanist historian. We have three young Chinese students: one from Hebei (from the Hui minority), one from the northeast (she is proud of her father’s Manchurian ethnicity), and one from Nanjing. We have three very fun Mongolians whose Korean is difficult for me to understand but who provide some 70% of the energy and enthusiasm for our class. There are also five Japanese students, two from Yokohama (which is, of course, the most awesome city in Japan), two from Kyûshû, and one from Gunma.

These include one Korean-Japanese student who was born and raised in Japan but has Korean citizenship. Unlike many zainichi I know, I was surprised to hear from her that she didn’t learn that she was Korean-Japanese until she was in high school! She had always wondered why the dolls on display in her house were different from others in the neighborhood but otherwise always thought she was just a perfectly normal Japanese. Her last name is a give away Korean name (but her mother’s sounds very Japanese, despite both parents being 2nd generation zainichi). Her parents spoke only Japanese, cooked and ate only Japanese food, and abandoned certain Korean holidays and other customs. Then in high school she first learned about her Korean citizenship when she went to get her fingerprints taken and heard more soon after as her grandmother got very old and suddenly told her stories about coming to Japan when she was young. After graduating from college, she suddenly discovered what consequences her zainichi status had as she experienced various difficulties in looking for a job and at her company. Interestingly though, this student has no interest in her Korean past, in the Korean language, in Korean culture, or in ever living or having anything to do with Korea. I asked, “Why did you come then?” She explained that she wanted to go abroad after quitting her job, and having Korean citizenship meant that coming to Korea was the easiest option for her. Like many zainichi though, she is very reluctant to go through the process that will get her Japanese citizenship.

What I especially like about this class though is the particularly warm friendships there are between some of the Chinese and Japanese students, something which I really love to see. With the exception of me (who has the triple distinction of being our resident white boy, the older student/아저시, and undoubtedly the worst Korean speaker) everyone has strong enough Korean to be able to have a wide variety of fast and fun conversations with all their classmates. I think this really helps overcome some of the cliquish splits that might develop.