First Report from Korea

I’m sitting in small café called “Fango” at Seoul University’s Language Education Institute (LEI). I arrived in Seoul yesterday and I’m here until mid-August to study Korean.

A storm is raging outside while some ’60s-sounding Norwegian song (the second one in less than half an hour!?) is playing over the café speakers. Although I’m not sure when this blog posting will hit the net, at the present moment (June 1st), I’m homeless. The room in the International Student dormitory that I was supposed to move into this afternoon is still occupied by the resident I was to replace. After going to the dorm and discovering my room still occupied, I was informed by phone the details by the LEI office and summoned back to the school for consultation on my predicament. There were some half dozen things about this program that had already angered me so I was prepared to take a hardline with the office administrators about my dormitory predicament.

I was completely disarmed when the dormitory administrator told me, “he took complete responsibility” and offered to let me stay in his room in the same dormitory that evening if the former resident had not moved out by the evening (he is apparently trying to get a ticket out of the country). “I’ll take the floor and you can have my bed.”

It isn’t the first time I have experienced generosity here. If I stop too long on the streets with a map in my hand someone offers, in English, to help me find my way. At the airport, a random stranger stepped up to tell me I was trying to use a phone card in the wrong brand phone and then walked me over to the correct phone. Today, after discovering that the buses don’t give change for a 10,000 won note when you pay a 900 won fare, the bus driver refused to drive on without me and told me he would wait while I popped into a nearby convenience store to get some change, which I promptly did.

I spent a wonderful couple of days in Takarazuka hanging with Sayaka‘s family. We made a trip into Osaka to give me a look around the city and in addition to recovering from jet lag, I felt like I was being fed delicious food constantly.

Here in Korea, I’m completely lost. I had some bizarre Korean-Japanese fusion food yesterday at a “Hot Noddle” shop where I ordered some Kimchi Udon and Fish Dumplings. I wanted to order a drink but the only option on the wall menu was “Cock / Cider” (this item was only written in English) and I wasn’t 100% confident that they meant Coca-cola.

In all of my half dozen or so “in the field” conversations in Korean so far, I’m suffering from a huge problem: I’m usually getting across, in some way or other, what I want to say in my broken Korean and perhaps a bit of wild gesticulation. Then, after kindly complementing me on my horrible language skills, they reply to me in lightning fast Korean and I have no idea what they are saying. Asking them to slow down reduces the speed to something a little bit short of Mach 5 but still too fast for me to distinguish one word from the next.

Classes start next week so I have plenty of opportunities to get a bit more accustomed to daily life here, assuming of course, I have a place to live sometime in the next few days. I’ll post this and other postings when my laptop gets some internet access.

UPDATE: The resident I was to replace moved out this evening so I am moved into my room in the international student dormitory.

Map of my Daily Life

For friends and family who may be curious, the awesome satellite feature of Google Maps can now bring you a map of my daily life here. Except for Korean, most of my classes are in Robinson hall and Divinity 2. Except for groceries and to hunt for food in the Square (slightly to the SW of the map below) I rarely leave this small geographically delimited space these days. Click here or on the map image below for large detailed satellite photo with my own comments. Here is also a link to the map at google maps.

Best Places: San Francisco, Boston, and Seattle

I just tried the Sperling’s BestPlaces survey and It would appear the top 10 places for me to live in the US are: San Francisco, Boston, Seattle, Washington, DC, Tacoma (WA), Long Island (NY), Syracuse (NY), San Jose (CA), Minneapolis-St. Paul (MN-WI), and Denver (CO). I’m a bit confused about some of them, but the top three includes both the place I live now (Boston) and the place I would most like to live in the US (Seattle).

“Chinatown” Buses Between Boston and New York

I think most US domestic travelers are familiar with bus companies like Greyhound and the Amtrak trains. They also know how expensive and time consuming they can be. The more seasoned among us know where to get the cheapest plane tickets or the best deal on renting a car. But, short of hitchhiking, you can’t really call yourself a veteran of travel on the East Coast without having travelled on the mysterious “Chinatown” buses that operate between places like Washington D.C., New York, Philadelphia, and Boston.

These buses, which operate under company names like Boston Deluxe, Fung Wah, and Lucky Star, can beat any price I have yet seen on trips between these major cities, with the 4-6 hour Boston to New York route that I just came back from being a mere $15 one-way.

On the way down to New York I caught the Fung Hua bus, that runs almost every hour of the day, on the hour, from South Station bus terminal which can be reached by the red line subway. Finding the place to board the bus reminded me of Harry Potter’s attempts to find his train to school. While I didn’t have to walk through any brick walls, Fung Hua and Lucky Star buses were operating out of gates 13 1/3 and 13 2/3 respectively. The line of waiting passengers was filled with mostly student types and young Asian Americans. You can buy the ticket there or show them your print out of the “e-ticket” from their online ticket order page.

The bus was decent and the ride would have been quite tolerable were it not for the Finnish college student sitting next to me whose cellphone battery was one of those marvels of Finnish technology that could sustain her many conversations for almost 5 continuous hours. I wouldn’t have minded so much were it not for the fact that I was annoyed at being constantly reminded of how completely foreign that language is to a Scandinavian like myself who has little difficulty in being understood in most other places in our blessed and most holy lands of the North (except Iceland, whose inhabitants have, of course, been linguistically frozen in time for so long that our students of ancient literature have a better chance of communicating with them than any of our more modern Nordic ambassadors of good will or, for that matter, Danes armed with a nostalgic colonial condescension).

About half way through the trip, however, a large hissing noise came from the front of the bus and our driver pulled the bus over onto the highway’s shoulder. We waited about 15 minutes while the driver called his bus tech support line. Without any announcement or attempt at repair he re-boarded the bus, and continued the drive to New York with the hissing still going. Judging by the hissing sound and the draft of freezing air that flooded the bus for the remainder of the trip, the front door of the bus was having difficulty in keeping itself closed. I tried to keep warm and drifted in and out of sleep before arriving finally at the “Confucius” tower apartment complex in New York’s Chinatown where my first trip with a “Chinatown bus” company came to an end.

I tried a different company on the way back. The “Boston Deluxe” goes only three times a day for the same price, but is convenient for Columbia University students and other New York visitors/residents who use the 1 or 9 subway line because it departs from 32nd and Broadway very near the Penn. Station subway stop, before making another stop at E 86th street and 2nd Avenue. I caught the 8:30 morning departure. The bus pulled in, with its Cantonese-speaking driver yelling into his Nextel walkie talkie and beckoning me onto the unmarked luxury bus he parked illegally in the No-standing zone by the road. I wasn’t sure I had the right bus to start with, since the bus door had a large sign upon which was hastily scribbled the Chinese characters for “Washington D.C.” (華盛頓). I asked the driver if he was going to Washington D.C. or Boston and, since I interrupted his yelling into the Nextel phone, my question was met with an irritated look before saying something sounding like the closest thing Cantonese can get to the word Boston. He waved me onto the bus and indicated I should take my luggage onto the bus instead of loading it in the bus’s luggage compartment, presumably since they weren’t expecting many passengers today.

The bus was completely filled with empty coffee cups and trash bags, probably left over from the Washington D.C. trip that was announced by the door’s sign. For the first hour or so of the ride, the bus belched a loud grinding sound so frightening that I seated myself furthest from the noise in the hope I would thereby survive any explosion of the engine. As I drifted in and out of sleep I counted two unannounced stops, one I believe was at a small Chinese operated grocery store somewhere near New Haven where our driver disappeared for a few minutes. However, unlike the Fung Wah experience, this bus also stopped for about 10 minutes so that passengers could get a bite to eat on the way there. I slept through most of the trip.

The Chinatown buses can’t be beat for their low price and I think they usually can get you there in one piece.

Discovery of Borges

How is that I have lived just over 29 years without ever having discovered Jorge Luis Borges? How did I manage not to hear about him or read his work? I have just been reading some of his essays/stories. He absolutely blows my mind. He is like some perfect combination of Edgar Allen Poe and Umberto Eco. Almost every essay I have read so far leaves me with hours of fertile thinking. Is there anyone else like this that I have somehow managed to miss all these years?

Reference

My sister works at the reference desk of the Bartlesville library. She is apparently supposed to know everything about everything…or at least know where to find it. I simply can’t understand how they balance this. They also answer calls from anyone wanting information about…anything. Since directory services cost money, apparently she receives calls from people asking her to look up phone numbers…which she does. I was just talking to her when a guy called to have her look up a cartoon character from a cartoon strip he was curious about. She said she would and would call him back. She then googled it.

I was amazed, can they call up and ask anything? “Pretty much.” Although apparently she drew the line recently when someone came and asked my sister to change her plane ticket from an aisle seat to a window seat.

Our conversation ended there since she had to google the cartoon character and get back to her caller. I asked her, “Why can’t you tell him to google it himself?” She answered, “He may not know how to use the internet or have access to it. We are taught not to treat the internet as if it was, ‘the store next door’ that they can be referred to.”

I was floored at the extent of the responsibility they accepted…I finally asked her, “What if someone came in and asked what color the house next door to their own was?” Without any pause or appreciation for the absurdity of the question, she said, “Oh, I would probably refer them to the family and local history librarian.”

Year in Review

My family Christmas celebrations have concluded. I spent a warm and happy time together with my parents, my sister Carleen and my brother-in-law Mike. Since I don’t really send out Christmas cards or even 年賀状 (new year’s cards) I’ve decided to try to compile a sort of “year in review” on my blog. It will be somewhat longwinded but I’ll bold the more major event markers.

This is actually quite a challenge, since I suffer from a mild case of the “memento syndrome” combined with a more regular long term amnesia. However, using the techniques of a historian and detective I have been able to reconstruct the only true and, of course completely accurate narrative of my past year with the use of three important archives: My calendar application, my email, and my blog entries.

Continue reading Year in Review

Introductions

I haven’t experienced this with people in my department (history) but based on my experiences so far, this is a very common first conversation with other Harvard graduate students (especially law school students):

A: What is your name?
B: Konrad
A: Where did you go to undergrad?
B: Western Washington University
A: Oh

Besides the fact that my undergraduate institution, which I’m very fond of, is not an elite ivy league school, it also fits into the ridiculed category of what my recent PhD graduate friend calls, “East Jesus Tech” or any schools where are “directional colleges”, religious/denominational, or technical colleges.

The Benefits of Nerdy Blogging

Ok, I just looked over some of my past entries. I seem to have a very nerdy blog. I don’t even have any recent anti-Bush bashing postings, more general political rants, or the jokes that I think are a common feature of even academic blogs. The only posting I have recently that has any direct connection of my life here is on my new carrel, and what can get more nerdy than that? From a more nerdy point of view, how can I justify the time I spend posting these articles on books I’m reading, talks I’m attending, and thoughts I have about history? The answer is surprisingly simple. I actually benefit from this in a real way. In many cases I’m summarizing talks, papers, or books—or at least reproduce what I believe are interesting points. This is very helpful to me for at least three reasons: 1) It is great practice in writing. While there are important differences between the “blogging mode” and the “academic paper” mode, I do feel like I’m getting lots of practice in forming and organizing ideas, something which offers very broad benefits. 2) When you are forced to reproduce arguments in your own words, or extract from them points which may have been floating vaguely at the back of the mind as, “something I hope I’ll remember” then you help to anchor those points and thoughts within your own mind. 3) I have serious memory issues and fairly bad organization skills. In the future, this blog will serve as a useful archive of thoughts and to a lesser degree, events in my life.

My Very Own Carrel

Well, sort of. Actually I have to share it with two other people. But this is not to be underestimated. I’m a real man now, or at least, a real graduate student. Even though I’m a lowly G1 (Gadfly Level 1) just starting out on my path to enlightenment in a history Phd, I have been granted a Carrel on the second floor of the musty stacks of Widener library. A Carrel, is defined as, “A partially partitioned nook in or near the stacks in a library, used for private study,” but I have always thought of it more as meaning something similar to the “sitting at the back of the bus” in graduate school terms.
carrelCarrel Shelves

The way I understand it, I now get to check out tons of books with my very special “Carrel library card” and then put them on my “Carrel shelf” (both on the desk and behind it) for my indefinite personal access. That is, until, of course, someone comes along and presses the “Recall” button in the online catalog of the library. Then I, reluctantly, will have to return to book to the control of mere mortals.

I also get a little combination lock controlled locker, just like high school! Ok, so I have to share that with two other people too. But I think there is more at work here than just a need to fairly distribute the carrels amongst the thousands of graduate students here.
Continue reading My Very Own Carrel