Guessing Korean: 안내 and 은행

I’m told about 60% or so of Korean words, especially nouns, are Chinese derived compounds. They once used 한자 (漢字/汉字), or Chinese characters when they wrote most if not all of these words. Now, I think, hanja is only rarely used in the South and almost never in the North. I know this is really selfish of me, but I really wish Korea still used Chinese characters for these words. Ya ya, literacy concerns, the benefits of using the “world’s most logical” alphabetic system, Korean identity and all that, I have heard it all before. But just think though, if they still used 한자 over a billion Chinese, over a hundred million Japanese, and a bunch of other Asia scholar geeks could all prance around Korea and understand the signs!

Ok, perhaps it is a little too much to expect but, if you speak some Chinese and some Japanese, and you sit down and spend the hour or two needed to learn the Korean alphabet, it is still not that difficult to guess many Korean words you come across, assuming you have some hint at the context. That is because Korean words derived from Chinese character compounds often sound really similar to either the Chinese or Japanese equivalent. Sometimes the compound exists in Japanese but not in Chinese. Other times, only in Chinese. Sometimes they exist in both but the pronunciation is very similar only to one of the two.
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Generic Protest Song in Korea?

I was in Korea only about 36 hours but saw several protests while I was there. The biggest was in a subway station where Suhee tells me they were protesting an increase in subway prices (I am trying to imagine this kind of Korean style protest inside a New York MTA station). About a hundred men were standing in military like formation listening to an extremely emotional man essentially yell his speech. He was followed by another man’s speech, and then a third man led the entire group in singing some protest song (Suhee was unsure of the song’s name but wrote the following in my notebook: 투쟁가 노동가, whatever that means) The song was sung in perfect unison, and their perfectly unified voices echoed throughout the tunnels of the subway station. I was amazed that the protesters had mastered a special song for “our protest against rising subway prices” but when I asked Suhee what they were saying she said it was the “generic protest song.” Suhee was herself a radical student protester in her undergraduate years, participating in lots of miscellaneous left-wing or anti-government protests and said she had often sung the song.

How cool! Korea has a generic protest song?! I wonder if other countries with a long history of civil protests (Taiwan? Latin America? Poland? etc.) have a similar sort of thing. Suhee claims that it helps build a feeling of unity and community in a group that might not know each-other well. I can’t help wondering what the lyrics are! What lyrics would fit all of the following: a protest against subway prices, an anti-American imperialism protest, an anti-government dictatorship protest, a pro-unification protest, etc.? Anyone know more about this? Or know the meaning of the lyrics? I imagine you would have to keep things really generic. A clue might be in what Suhee wrote in my notebook. I can guess that part of what she wrote, 노동가 means “the worker’s song”, assuming the word comes from 劳动歌 which sounds similar in Chinese and Japanese (I look this up later). More on guessing the meaning of Korean words later…

Money Envelopes

I guess a lot of Japanese tourists go to Korea. I know Japanese love Korean food, and there is a boom now of Korean pop culture and movies, but I expect any current boom is in no small part thanks to the Korean drama, known as 冬のソナタ in Japan, which became a huge hit on Japanese television. I even found brochures in my hotel for the “Winter Sonata” TV drama tour for 73,000 won which takes you to the various locations that appear in the series (02-774-3345 if you in Seoul and interested).

One clue to the huge number of incoming Japanese tourists was the fact that at the airport, exchanging yen for won is an exceptionally simplified process. They have envelops with pre-exchanged amounts of yen, in my case 30,000 yen (of which I ultimately only used half of during my stay).

WOW – a moderately strong earthquake just hit me here in Tokyo as I am writing this…lots of horizontal swaying, stopped after about ten seconds.

It first caught me off guard when I handed the exchange clerk my yen, only to be immediately handed an envelop in exchange. He saw my puzzled look and just said, “Count it…”

First Trip to Korea

I just returned from my first trip to Korea. I was only there a single full day and two nights but it was sort of a reconnaissance mission for me. I plan on studying Korean there next summer and the summer after, and hopefully will return thereafter for an extended period of research, but I wanted to get a quick feel for the place before I return to the US and begin my Phd program in the fall. Tickets were cheap and my friend Suhee happened to have her birthday this Friday, so the timing worked out great.

Obviously, being in a country less than 48 hours doesn’t allow for either much sightseeing or immersion into the local culture, but my short time there left me with a rich collection of memories, and the usual assortment of FOB (fresh off the boat) observations.
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Freedom and Equality

Sometimes it is good to come across reminders that words, while powerful, and potentially imbued with virtuous sounding echos, can often hide deeply compromising realities. Take the passage below, for example, found in the testimony at the trial of a Japanese popular rights activist who was planning a Japan led/guided revolution in Korea. I have removed the words “Korea” and “Asia” and “Japan” and “Japanese” etc. and replace with “we” and “they” etc. in order to show the template that lies beneath. As a fun experiment try replacing these words with other countries from the last year of news:

“[We] wish to bring peace and happiness to the people suffering there…Our action is derived from compassion, a spirit of mutual help; it was not aimed at war with the people….[They] are our brothers and sisters. Just as they may offer help to [us] [we] too must be ready to help them. There should be no suspicion of one who sees another people suffering, feels compassion toward them and wishes to help them. It is the person who does not respond that way that should be suspected. [Their] customs are…uncivilized…and [their] penal codes are barbaric….For [us] to just watch and do nothing for them was unbearable to those of us who love freedom and equality, and our mind was made up to help them…Our struggle in [that country] is not a war in the usual sense; it is directed not against the country itself nor against its people but against a handful of leaders there who are oppressing the people….” (14)

While the plot failed, Japan went on to annex Korea only a few decades later. The quote is cited in an old essay by Etô Shinkichi, “Two Faces of Janus: The Role of Japanese Activists in Modern East Asia” from 1986. As I indicated in my earlier posting on the Norwegian SS soldier, I’m increasingly fascinated by how easily accounts from what we may imagine to be diametrically opposed ideologies or distant historical contexts can often sound so similar when we merely remove a few nouns here and there.

I haven’t thought this through yet, but I don’t think it is possible or even desirable to completely desensitize ourselves to powerful rhetoric, or extract some pure rational argument supporting every cause both noble and wicked. Given that, how do we situate ourselves in a world buzzing with these kinds of messages? It is a real issue for me, and one that I find myself thinking about a lot…

Philosopher’s Tics

Ok, so I know I have a major case of this and it is one of my major personality flaws, but I really like to think that I’m a recovering patient:

Philosopher’s Tics: The inability to pass over a faulty inference or fallacy in silence, or to correct it in a spirit of generosity; a relentless need to accuse one’s adversary of insufficient ‘rigor’, or of ‘misreading’ or ‘failing to understand’ one’s position; and, the worst of all, a constant need to drive home one’s greater intellect, at the expense of the merits of the argument.”

Via Crooked Timber and The Leiter Reports

Multilingual Airplane Announcements

I’m writing this on the plane back to Tokyo. I have always been interested in the way that announcements on many flights, especially in Asia and Europe are given in multiple languages. Some of them, such as the pilot’s post-take-off babbling speech, has to be interpreted on the fly by the flight attendants. The imperfections that result from such interpreting and the differing strategies in interpretation that sometimes result are something I love to tune into when I’m lucky enough to understand more than one version. On this flight, the American pilot had his speech translated into Chinese and Japanese which is a lucky combo of languages for me…
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Fighting Over Small Change

I’m writing this on my way to Chiang Kai-shek International Airport in Taipei. I’m heading back to Tokyo today after a wonderful two weeks which included hiking in Taroko National Park (Tailuge) and on the northern coast at Yeliu. I had a bit of a fight with a taxi driver on the way to catch my airport bus this morning. Taiwan is getting rid of its old $50 coins right now and it is becoming increasingly difficult to use the old coins. I tried to unload my last two old $50 coins on the taxi driver for my $100 (about $3 US) fare. First he said, “You can’t use these coins anymore.” I knew this was a lie. Had he simply asked, “Do you have any other coins, these are a real pain for me to get changed.” I would have been nice but his attempt to fool a foreigner brought out my stubborn fighting spirit…
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Nationalism vs. Patriotism

My friend Derek left a comment in which he said he feels like the lines between patriotism and nationalism are blurring for him. I have discussed this issue often with friends and it tends to bring out strong emotions, partly because I tend to offend many people’s intuitions when I explain my own position on this. The short version of the traditional story on this goes, of course, that patriotism is a healthy love of one’s country, pride in its achievements, and a natural loyalty to it as a citizen, while nationalism is the dark, often fascist variety that breeds all sorts of evil deeds.

The division, in my opinion is completely political. I never use the word patriotism because I am not satisfied with any definition of it that makes it any substantively different than any useful definition of nationalism I have ever come across. Patriotism is to nationalism as collateral damage is to killing civilians.

Because the debate usually gets heated right about here, I have found it productive to look at things the other way around and show what the two have in common: they both accept the idea that one should (or naturally does) identify with some abstract entity, called the nation, which is somehow different and distinct from the institutions of a political body called the state. They both bestow upon this entity a great deal of legitimacy, moral value, and authority and further hold that this thing generates powerful obligations of loyalty upon its members, who may or may not be the legal citizens of a state to which the nation usually corresponds.

Both of them have at least three major internal tensions or contradictions which I believe can be easily revealed by posing three questions: What is the relationship between the nation to its people (in terms of culture, language, ideology, citizenship, etc.)? What is the relationship between the nation and a state (for example, what about nationalisms which had/have no state like Kosovo or pre-Israel Zionism)? And then there is my favorite: What is the relationship between the obligations to a nation (if one even admits to having them which, for the record, I don’t), and other obligations one might have to one’s morals, some religious deity, or other communities like family, company, town, race, etc.?
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Inventions, National Achievements, and Paper clips

Most nations of the world go out of their way to celebrate things they have, or believe they have, contributed to the world. They often latch onto the creations or achievements of a person or a whole community of a period when there was nothing similar in form to the modern nation. Sometimes the “achievements” claimed or celebrated, are, upon closer examination, responsible for so much mischief, that one wonders why they are still celebrated. Mongolia’s fascination with the figure of Genghis Khan is a good example of both. This sort of practice is so common I think we can all think of examples in every country.

When these achievements are of a more abstract or ideological nature, even the most admirable of principles can lead to sinister consequences. The most obnoxious obvious example I can think of is the American claim to be the world’s wellspring of freedom and democracy. The claim takes many forms, from the limited celebration of the entrance of America’s democracy onto the world stage, to a broader vision of America as being somehow uniquely capable of blessing the world with leadership and guidance. What I think is unique about this kind of nationalist claim is its powerful universal reach. That is, it goes beyond the traditional nationalist claim of, “Hey, my nation has a glorious history and kicks major butt” to reach beyond its borders and suggest there is a national responsibility to attend to the development of the rest of the world.

While America has gone through several “isolationist” periods, I don’t think this built-in aspect of American nationalism has ever disappeared completely. I also know that I’m not the first to argue that this is a feature America shares with Napoleon’s France and the Soviet proletarian revolution. It probably also shares much in common with another move, less particular to any single nation as it is a feature of the birth and development of nations in general (especially the colonial powers): the claim to champion progress and Civilization. All of these moves serve as a powerful justification for Empire, mass mobilization, and total war when they are effectively deployed.

Most nations like Norway, however, appear to be content to take pride in the invention of more mundane things. Of course, Norwegian-Americans can often be found with bumper stickers or mugs claiming, “Columbus had a Norwegian map,” which is a joking reference to the viking settlements in North America that long preceded Christopher’s trip across the ocean. However, I am told now that someone is making the more serious claim that Columbus had a Chinese map. Oh well. At least Norway invented paper clips.

I read this first in a fascinating book I skimmed through some years ago at a friend’s house in Stavanger. It was kind of a picture book of “Norwegian inventions.” Each page had a beautiful picture of some object that “Norway invented” and on the facing side was a short history of that particular object. Ferro-concrete and rubber boots were two of the book’s more memorable entries and probably not as controversial as the Norwegian claim to have invented skiing. But paper clips—how could I ever view these humble metal objects in the same way again? How can I avoid being filled with national pride at the way my dear humble Norway revolutionized the modern office environment at the turn of this century?

What is most farcical about this class of more modest claims, of course, is the way that an individual’s invention is transformed suddenly into the pride of a whole nation. Presumably, the inventiveness of the individual is a reflection of national character, intelligence, or the quality of its educational system. Fortunately, discussion of these national inventions and achievements now often retain only a sort of cocktail party trivia value. I wish I could say that this was always the case. Exceptions abound.

Many Chinese, and the Chinese government, for example, are rather unsure of how they are to respond to the achievements of overseas Chinese who make dazzling scientific discoveries, or when one of the most eloquent critics of their authoritarian government wins a nobel price for literature. Do you claim them for national pride? Ignore them? Or do you perhaps condemn them as traitors if they don’t come home? The Americans, of course, will claim for their own anyone who did research at its powerful universities and other institutes.

Another way that this becomes a big issue is when something like a Nobel prize becomes government currency to legitimize an education system or measure its degree of “creativity.” Japan’s Ministry of Education and many of Japan’s politicians are convinced that winning a certain number of nobel prizes is a great way to advance Japan’s reputation globally, as well as measure the progress of its educational reform. James Bartholomew has done a lot of research on this for those who are interested in learning more. Japan has announced the goal of winning 30 prizes over the next 50 years. One of many problems is, as Bartholomew pointed out in a presentation I saw him give at Berkeley a few years ago, the Nobel prize system has never been anything close to a fair and objective measure of scientific achievement (it was also structurally tilted in favor of Scandinavians at one point). He talked about Japan’s efforts to win science prizes in the prewar period and the amazing obstacles they faced in competing (as well as domestic discord which often sabotaged their chances). The Nobel prize process is one so mired in politics that the Japanese government has poured all sorts of money into coordinating its efforts nationally and playing the political lobbying campaign (see one interesting article here) that I seriously doubt that any eventual success of the policy can be linked to a general flowering of Japanese creativity and scientific prowess.

bindersNow Norwegian paper clips, on the other hand—there is an achievement which can tell you a lot about that people in the cold north. The invention of paper clips doesn’t prove that Norwegians are necessarily more creative or even great scientists. It means, like the Norwegian word for paper clip, binders, itself means: the people of the Norwegian nation are bound together as one. This is best demonstrated by the fact (you can read one online retelling of this here, and on countless Norwegian web sites—the web never lies) that during the German occupation of Norway, Norwegians were forbidden to wear badges bearing the initials of their exiled king so instead they displayed their national unity by attaching paper clips to their clothes.