As a kind of follow up to my recent article at Chanpon.org on Japan “Losing its soul” I have also noticed a lot of posters in recent Japanese advertisements which claim that visiting some place will help you discover yourself—that is, discover one’s latent or forgotten Japanese identity. Today I noticed just such a poster on the bus going from Kinkakuji to Ryôanji promoting tourism to Kyoto:

「日本に、京都があってよかった。こころの風景、うつくしい時間にこだわった、千二百余年。時代をこえて、永遠をつなぐ風がこの町を駆け抜ける。平安をもとめつづけるこの都で、風に吹かれて出会うのは、”知らなかったワタシ”だったりする。」

I am so glad Japan has this place called Kyoto. It is a landscape of the spirit that, for some thousand and two hundred years has devoted itself to spending time surrounded by beauty. Spanning the ages, a wind bound to eternity runs through this town. In this [ancient] capital that always yearned for peace (Heian) I think I might have found, blowing in the wind, “A Me that I have never known.”

Feel free to correct my translation, but if it seems a little on the cheesy side, I assure you it was no less so in the original. Sayaka noticed that the “Heian” is probably deliberately used with two meanings, peace (which is a very important component of Japan’s national identity in the postwar period), and as the name for the period when the capital was moved to Kyoto and also representative of its glory days.

This advertisements almost always feature a smiling face of a youthful Japanese woman or man, smiling happily and staring off into the sky in some direction (not entirely dissimilar to Chinese and North Korean political posters, or this recent Japanese campaign to promote the purchase of government bonds).

This kind of poster, we should note, is a slight twist on the average travel advertisement. You might go to Disneyland to discover “fun and adventure,” to Hawaii or Niagara Falls to discover “love and romance”, to the US mid-west to discover “the real America” and you might even go to Yoga lessons to discover “yourself” in the metaphysical sense. These advertisements, however, are appealing to Japanese, I believe, in the same way as the “losing the soul of Japan” advertisements do. They are urging Japanese to cast off their decadent and lifeless modern shells in order to reconnect with that beautiful and pure Japanese core inside. The Japanese just need to “find themselves” again. Ultimately, however, “finding themselves,” which is surely a prominent theme found in many countries around world that suffer from various “crises of modernity” often means returning to an idealized past. Whether it is Gandhi returning to an idealized India early Chinese anti-Manchu nationalists turning to the glory days of “Han” rule, there is nothing about this phenomenon unique to Japan.

It does, however, help explain how amazingly positive Japanese reactions have been to a movie like “The Last Samurai.” Most of the Japanese I have spoken to about this movie, especially older men, love that movie. The samurai prancing about mountain villages like an idyllic Native American community, the celebration of “Bushido values” without a single thought to what silliness this led to in modern times (not to mention pre-modern times), and of course, there is the maniacal devotion to the emperor—presumably all these things are a part of that noble old Japan, no matter what the reality was.

No, put that way, most people in Japan today would respond with disgust, but it brings into focus the problem with designating the past, not the least in the case of Japan, as the origin of virtue and the only legitimate source of identity.