Hanbando

After a trip to South Korea’s National Museum this afternoon, a friend of mine took us to a rather unusual new addition to Seoul’s night live. Only a few days ago a restaurant near Yŏngŭngp’o Market station called Hanbando (하반도 평양식 극장식당, ph. 2636-3550) opened with a North Korean theme to it. The interior walls are painted with the blue “united Korea” flag symbol and is painted landscapes from North and South Korea.

Hanbando PerformersWhat makes this place special is the fact that is jointly run by South Koreans and North Korean defectors, who make up much of the staff. Waitresses were dressed in characteristically North Korean black and white traditional dress and the climax of the evening came with an on-stage performance by several North Korean dancers and singers. As someone from the management explained to us when we came in, “They once sang for their country, now they are singing for themselves.” They performed various North Korean songs, some of which seemed to be familiar to the audience. The several dozen visitors who were there tonight were mostly middle aged or older but included at least one three generational family complete with grandmother and toddler.

김혜영
The Performers were led by Kim Hye-yŏng who is apparently well-known in both South Korea and increasingly in Japan since she defected to the South some seven years ago (More here which mentions the restaurant). During the performance my friends enjoyed some North Korean “Schizandra liquor” (오미자술) complete with its “Made in DPR Korea” tag. More than anything about Hanbando, what I find interesting was the complex mix of messages the restaurant gave to its visitors.
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My Class

I’m really happy with my class here, fourteen of us in all. They are almost all very young students in or fresh out of college but they are fun group. We have one Indonesian, married to a Dutchman and studying art, French and Korean at various universities to avoid the “boring” women’s expat organizations. There is a Korean-American who actually just entered my department at Harvard for the coming fall as an Americanist historian. We have three young Chinese students: one from Hebei (from the Hui minority), one from the northeast (she is proud of her father’s Manchurian ethnicity), and one from Nanjing. We have three very fun Mongolians whose Korean is difficult for me to understand but who provide some 70% of the energy and enthusiasm for our class. There are also five Japanese students, two from Yokohama (which is, of course, the most awesome city in Japan), two from Kyûshû, and one from Gunma.

These include one Korean-Japanese student who was born and raised in Japan but has Korean citizenship. Unlike many zainichi I know, I was surprised to hear from her that she didn’t learn that she was Korean-Japanese until she was in high school! She had always wondered why the dolls on display in her house were different from others in the neighborhood but otherwise always thought she was just a perfectly normal Japanese. Her last name is a give away Korean name (but her mother’s sounds very Japanese, despite both parents being 2nd generation zainichi). Her parents spoke only Japanese, cooked and ate only Japanese food, and abandoned certain Korean holidays and other customs. Then in high school she first learned about her Korean citizenship when she went to get her fingerprints taken and heard more soon after as her grandmother got very old and suddenly told her stories about coming to Japan when she was young. After graduating from college, she suddenly discovered what consequences her zainichi status had as she experienced various difficulties in looking for a job and at her company. Interestingly though, this student has no interest in her Korean past, in the Korean language, in Korean culture, or in ever living or having anything to do with Korea. I asked, “Why did you come then?” She explained that she wanted to go abroad after quitting her job, and having Korean citizenship meant that coming to Korea was the easiest option for her. Like many zainichi though, she is very reluctant to go through the process that will get her Japanese citizenship.

What I especially like about this class though is the particularly warm friendships there are between some of the Chinese and Japanese students, something which I really love to see. With the exception of me (who has the triple distinction of being our resident white boy, the older student/아저시, and undoubtedly the worst Korean speaker) everyone has strong enough Korean to be able to have a wide variety of fast and fun conversations with all their classmates. I think this really helps overcome some of the cliquish splits that might develop.

A Psychological Test

While visiting Taiwan last week, Sayaka was asked to answer questions in a 心理テスト (A psychological test, a kind of mental game that is supposed to reveal something fundamental about one’s character) by one of her friends there. She was asked to name two 四字熟語 (A four character compound, usually a proverb etc.) that came to mind. After you answer, you are told that the first you name is your “view of life” (人生観) and the second that you name is your “view of love” (恋愛観).

Her answer to the first was a four character compound only used in Chinese (not in Japanese), 擦身而過 (to brush past, but not quite meet). This is apparently her view of life.

Her view of love was, how shall I put it? Just perfectly appropriate for the owner of the domain Securitygirl.net and my girlfriend:

弱肉強食

The strong will devour the weak.
(Literally: Weak – Meat – Strong – Eat)

More Athletes

Last summer, when I was heading on to Norway after a summer of study in Seoul, my fellow passengers and I found ourselves on the plane with the North Korean national soccer team. On Monday I began a repeat of last summer’s travel and next week I’ll begin a second summer of Korean language study at SNU’s program in Seoul. When I boarded the plan from Chicago to Tokyo (where I’m now hanging out for a week before traveling on to Korea) I found myself surrounded by Japan’s national wheelchair basketball team. One of the players was in my seat when I got there, and I got to see a performance of his amazing arm strength as he proceeded to move, with the use of his arms alone, from my seat to the one behind me.

I didn’t talk to any of players and kept my Japanese language ability “to myself,” but perhaps somewhat sneakily read over the shoulder of the team’s trainer sitting next to me. During our 12 hour flight the trainer spent several hours on two tasks: 1) He seemed to be contemplating game strategy for the team by writing notes feverishly on the back of his notepad, and evaluating the performance of the team in their last game (against Germany’s team it seems, guessing from the game performance worksheet he was filling out). 2) He spent a lot of time filling out daily workout summaries for the team. The detailed worksheets he filled out had some fascinating details. Under the category for “Morning” he wrote what they had for breakfast, and had the option of putting check marks next to two options for “A stroll” (散歩) and “Stretching.” He also detailed other meals the team ate during the day, and there was space on each worksheet for details of up to 5 daily workouts or “team gatherings” (集合) which he seemed to fill up with ease.

Most interesting was the fan mail which was, of course, none of my business, but which I read along with him nonetheless (He saw me staring at the letters but probably assumed I was a curious foreigner fascinated by all the funky Japanese characters rather than actually reading them). If any of you are fans of the Japanese wheelchair basketball team you can rest easy, your mail appears to be getting read. One particularly touching letter came from a Japanese junior high school student, who was a really dedicated fan (closing her letter with “Go Japan! Go Go Go Japan!”). After seeing its somewhat personal contents, I started feeling guilty about my reading and drifted off to sleep again.

Orals

My orals (PhD general exam) are over and I passed. I don’t think that what I have to say about it differs much from what everyone seems to say about. I was terribly nervous leading up the exam, especially since I knew there were gaping holes in my knowledge.

Two days before the test I had a horrible nightmare that reflected my anxiety with almost textbook precision. In the dream I walked into my orals and seated myself in front of my examiners only to notice that I was wearing nothing but my underwear. In a moment of complete terror, I considered running out to find some clothes to put on but since the professors were already there I decided to pretend as if there was nothing unusual about my attire. The oral examination proceeded but all of us struggled collectively not to admit openly what we all knew: that I was almost completely naked before them.

 Users Fool Library Application-Support Ecto Attachments Carebearstare The dream motivated me to make extra sure I had all my clothes prepared the day before (though I had to borrow some nice shoes from a roommate since winter boots, hiking shoes, and two pairs of sneakers are apparently all that I own). However, it was too late to remedy my more troubling epistemological nudity. I spent the last few hours before the exam reviewing notes and timelines but Rebecca was working in the history department’s library. She tried hard to convince me that nothing I read or reviewed at this point would make a bit of difference (ok, ok, she was totally right), and successfully distracted me by describing some recent online debates she was involved in concerning academics, breasts, and blogs, and the fact that the complete episodes of He-Man have been released on DVD. When I left the library to go eat something before my exam, instead of my four fields of history all I could think of for some reason were the cartoons that came up in our discussion and how much I would liked to have a kind of a “Care Bear Stare” power to dazzle my advisors during the exam. Then I got to thinking about which care bear I liked the best and wondered, again, if the show had planted anything subversive into my mind as a child. The end result of all this was to distract me from thinking about the trial to come, however, so I really owe Rebecca some thanks.

The exam itself was more like a two hour conversation with my four field advisors (the fields being Modern Korea, Modern Japan, Aftermaths of Modern War, and Early Modern European Intellectual History). After the exam the professors sent me out into the hall while they deliberated. There were a number of my friends outside waiting and my roommate Nick brought me a gallon of orange juice to celebrate (they all know I don’t drink, and the joke is that I drink enough orange juice that it, rather than blood, flows in my veins). When the professors emerged and announced the result, they seem to know from experience how anxious the waiting student can be and without fail they offered their warm congratulations and kind words.

As everyone else I spoke to also seemed to indicate, you don’t start thinking about exactly how incompetent some of your responses sounded during the exam until much later. In my case it wasn’t until the day after that this mental process kicked into gear. If there is one thing graduate students master very early on, it is how to tear any argument apart and dismiss the published results of years of hard historical research with a few sharp attacks. It is so bad in my case that I feel like somewhere along the line I should have been asked to take a class on “Reading Sympathetically” and perhaps one entitled, “Construction after Deconstruction.” At any rate, once my mind’s attack dogs were released onto the field of my memories about the event, there seemed to be no end to the folly of my orals performance.

Reflecting on this, I think this very destructive mental review process helps explain why so many of my friends have forgotten so many of the details of an event that I assumed would be forever retained. Already I can feel my mind trying to therapeutically smother the flames and bury the memory with vague images of smiling professors, the delicious looking cookies they served during the five minute break in the middle, and that strange warped blackboard I faced with one corner completely detached from the wall. Its over now, no need to continually reenact the whole two hours in my mind. I can now begin thinking more about a dissertation topic and the new rhythms and challenges of life as a third year student and teaching fellow.

New Alarm, Part II

I just came back from my last “mock orals” meeting (for my PhD general exams) today and it will all be over with the main event next Thursday afternoon. After the oral exam, all I have to do in order to get my PhD is write a book about something, right?

Instead of plunging back into my books and notes when I got home today, I really needed something to relieve my stress. I wanted to program something, anything really. I decided to bring my new alarm to the next level. It has been working wonderfully. However, to “set my alarm” each day I have to create an iCal event that triggers the elaborate process described in my previous posting. That is still not streamlined enough for me. If I woke up at the same time everyday like normal people I could just create a repeating event but my unhealthy sleeping schedule varies wildly.

Today I wanted to create something such that when I click it, it 1) asks me what time I want to wake up 2) Unless it is after midnight, it creates an alarm event in iCal for the next day (otherwise it creates one for today) which triggers my elaborate alarm at the time I told it. 3) It adjusts the computer’s wake up time to be 5 minutes before the alarm (The way I had it before, the computer’s scheduled wake up time did not fluctuate with the vast changes in my sleeping schedule). I’m not very experienced with applescript, which I used to accomplish my aim (I especially miss the great date and time functions of a language like PHP for example) but I got it to work. The resulting script is here, with the full text of the script below.
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May Day and The Great American Boycott 2006

Tomorrow is May 1st, and the Great American Boycott 2006 (El Gran Paro Americano 2006). It is also being called “The day without an immigrant” (Un dia sin immigrante). I’ll being joining the citywide gathering at Boston Commons at 4pm tomorrow and I hope there will be a big showing from the immigrant community and its supporters. You can find out more about the nationwide movement and links to local events for tomorrow at Nohr4437.org. I hope that recent roundups and rumors of roundups of undocumented immigrants will not dissuade anyone from joining in.

I’ll also be joining the Harvard May Day rally and walk out tomorrow which is to show solidarity with the movement. You can read more about the Harvard coalition here.

The basic positions: 1) against criminalization of undocumented immigrants 2) in demand for a real path to citizenship for the millions of undocumented individuals who reside in our country and want to become U.S. citizens 3) in support for civil rights for immigrant workers 4) in favor of equal access to education for immigrants and/or their children.

To find out more general information about these issues, and ways that you can support the movement, visit the Immigrant Solidarity Network.

An Hour with Hardeep

So here I am in Madison, Wisconsin, walking back to my motel room after dinner and I stop at a gas station on the side of the road to get some candy. As I open my wallet to pay, the man standing behind the inch of glass in front of me notices that I have an Oklahoma driver’s license and asks what I’m doing in Wisconsin. I said that I actually go to school in Boston and was here attending a conference. He then asked me what kind of conference it was. I said it was a conference on political trauma.

He looked a bit puzzled at the term so I asked him where he was from, India was the answer. I said, “Well, if we were to talk about political trauma in India, we might discuss the experience of the partition in ’47.” The man then got very excited and said, “Partition? I can tell you all about partition. You know, the only difference between educated and uneducated are the words that you use. You can use all sorts of words that I can’t but the ideas are all the same.” He then asked me if I had a gun, and when I assured him I didn’t, he unlocked the door to his little “office” and invited me in for a chat. What followed as an hourlong discussion and debate on the Indian partition (which I was happy to admit great ignorance about), religious and political violence, the virtues of British empire, racial profiling in America, and the war in Iraq.
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A Few Anecdotes

I’m writing this on my way back from a short trip to Japan where I presented at a conference held at Waseda. It was a great trip, and I got good feedback both at the conference and later directly from my old advisor from my two years spent as a research student at Waseda. I’ve collected a few anecdotes and thoughts from the trip which I thought I might post here.
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Back in Boston

I have returned to Boston and moved into a new apartment here in Cambridge. School to begin in one week and lots of things to do. It was a wonderful summer. I felt I made significant progress in Korean, had a productive (except I completely abandoned my attempt to teach myself German) but also wonderfully relaxed month back in Stavanger. I’ll try to post a bit on my reactions to the Norwegian election, though I’m a bit out of the post-election loop since I left the day it was held. After that, I will be most likely go back to posting more on the usual East Asia related topics, with much of it going on the Frog in a Well blogs.

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